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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.